Archive

Tag Archives: orange blossom

Pale yellow, mobile liquid.

Very fine and fresh, soft floral, with hesperidic nuances, well rounded. Slightly pungent, vert, terpy; evoluting from white fresh flowers to a metallic, rosey, ocimene-like, warm odour; very slightly indolic, but in a pleasant way, perfectly balanced.
A subtle, sweet tension produced by some linalyl acetate-like molecules, enlightens its aura. It somewhat recalls me the odour of wet, hot cotton tissue. It has a powdery, ‘clean’ aspect. After 15 minutes smelling it beautifully dries out and stabilises in a pronounced hesperidic bergamot-petitgrain-like whiff, and a tender flower suggesting hints of hay, tobacco, civet under a green fleshy and waxy veil.

Smelling this oil, discovering its facets throughout the evaporation curve is enchanting, a charming experience.

I like to ask me how one could use this product in a new, original way. Besides conventional compositions (colognes, chypres, fougères) or soliflores featuring orange blossom or rose, this material may need complete reinventing. It does smell just wonderful all alone, simply diluted in alcohol. It’s great in simple mixes (with woody, musky materials), but quite boring.. I think I should do some research on the flowery side of the perfumer’s palette. For example: it could be worth testing in some fine Narcisse, Lilac base, or leafy, green, imitation tea accord (its sweet fruitiness does fit well, indeed).

Advertisements

@ 100% pungent, chemical, thin sweet, heavy-flower, ylang, fruity, musty, grape.
@ 5% sweet, floral, ylang, orange blossom.

Useful in low concentrations in floral compositions, in imitation orange blossom, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, narcissus…
It reacts with aldehydes, forming condensation products (Schiff’s bases). Aurantiol is hydroxycitronellal+methyl anthranilate.

White crystal flakes.

@ 100% powerful, repulsive, pungent odour. Tarry, phenolic, almost faecal, dry.

@ 1% still powerful and phenolic, but softer. Floral, lily of the valley, honeysuckle, jasmine sambac, orange blossom.

@ .1% soft delicate, woody floral, jasmine, lily of the valley.

Very useful in floral composition @ .1 – .3 % max. It imparts a very realistic effect, a warm natural soul especially in muguet, honeysuckle and jasmine. In too high concentrations it lacks smoothness and imparts an acrid nuance, heasily recognizable during evaporation, especially on skin. I found it useful also in an imitation rum, for its opulent, decayed aspect (that goes well with fruity, woody notes).

It is quite sensitive to daylight and it discolors aldehydes and ketones.