Tag Archives: fruity

Green, fatty (aldehydic), acidic, rose ketone-like. Refreshing and juicy, really like biting an apple. Powdery and woody (similar to a patchouli coeur, Piconia or Verdox). Hints of floral fruitness. Well rounded and balanced throughout the evaporation. Maybe a little soapy, detergent-like (is my judgement somehow biased by my experience with functional products, that often contain such appley accords?). Quite a ‘perfumey’ apple, indeed.

On drying out the odour become more fruity, still dry and fatty, very apple-peel like. Hints of green, rose, geranium. Bright and sweet. Iris-powdery. On further evolution I can get whiffs of cinnamic alcohol-like molecules, sweet spicy, fruity and waxy, woody and very damascone or aldehyde C14-like.

Personally a very beautiful base, intelligently and technically well done. I like the many facets that refine the composition: the nice green accord and the beautiful waxy fatness. Moreover, it preserves its identity and character till the end.
Very much like the real thing, juicy and fleshy, astringent. Well balanced at any moment and nicely rounded, one can almost taste the peel and the flesh. As I said, a little bit ‘perfumey’… too sweet, not waxy and fatty enough at some point in the dry down.

But comparing a base to the object it mimics is often not satisfying. Considerations have to be made on the intended application: has been this base mostly conceived for functional products (a choice imposed by trends in perfumery)? Furthermore, would a copycat of nature be interesting enough on a technical point of view, would it stand itself like this base mostly unchanged and still alive for more than 12 hours?

My answer to the last question is simply: No. Not to talk about regulatory issues… nature actually has a much wider palette than a perfumer.
Concerning its use in fine fragrances: I think it would be good as well, since this base has many interesting facets that would come out even better in an hydroalcoholic menstruum, and possibly open smoothly on skin.

Mild smelling butyric, iso-valerate-like odour. It should be classified as fruity and classical plum-like. It exhibits a certain fresh sweeteness similar to some linalyl esters, but here a distinctive woody, dry, tobacco-y facet dominates the overall aspect. 

There might also be a rosey, green-metallic nuance. It is quite persistant, an heart note I would say.

Very nice in fruity accords: together with iso-amyl iso-valerate, bergamot eo or bergamot smelling chemicals (ethyl linalyl acetate), cassis absolute (or labienoxime 10%, cassyrane or other foxy, cat urine-smelling chemicals) and aldehyde c18/c14, it forms a sweet peachy bouquet.

In a fancy tobacco accord (preferably with tobacco absolute) it may constitute the plum-like note distinctive of some aromatised blends (plum juice concentrate).

Here’s a simple ambroxy/woody/burnt tobacco accord you can try with/without Datilat:

MOUSSE DE CHENE IFRA (with patchouli and ambroxid to form an easy and pleasant accord)
BIRCH TAR (trace)
HEDIONE (for diluting and mellowing effects)
CIVET ABS (recalling some strong tobaccos)
AMBROXID (to make the all thing wearable)
PATCHOULI COEUR (I usually don’t like messy top-notes, this one I prefer)
COSMONE (nice velvety effect)
CLOVE (as a modifier)
+DATILAT and/or ISOAMYL ISOVALERATE (if using iso-amyl iso-valerate be sure to add some top-notes like mandarin or bergamot in order to round its effect. It is quite volatile and it could unbalance the accord)