Coumarin

Sweet, tonka, almond-like, dry, woody odour. Lactonic nuance.

Its strength is better understood when properly diluted (usually at 5 or better 1%, in ethyl alcohol; anyway it will not dissolve at more than 8%). I usually keep it at a maximum concentration of 1% (fragrance concentrate), otherwise, it will grow and tend to overwhelm other notes.

It is a standard ingredient in chypres and fougères. It forms the classic ambrein accord together with vanillin, civet-like notes and bergamot.

Tonka bean absolute is quite obviously more complex and refined, it has soft, woodier, bitter, creamy, hay-tobacco-like, dark facets.

I have not yet found a good replacer for coumarin at this time. It could be Acetanisole (but it is thinner, sweeter, heliotropine-like in character). I really like Bicyclononalactone (closer to tonka, hay and hyraceum).

2 comments
  1. Machla P. said:

    Hi,
    I run a very small business selling bodycare products such as body sprays, lotions, cosmetics etc… bought through wholesale. I am currently looking to hire a perfumer for a signature scent that will be sold under our house – brand name or private label. I have been searching extensively for one but their charges are overwhelming for a small business like ours. Any idea where I could find or how to go about finding a reasonable perfumer? By the way, I find your link on google while surfing the web for Coumarin vs Bicyclononalactone. I followed your link and I have found plenty of info on it. I was just wondering if you might know or heard of a perfumer that is reasonable enough work with me. Thank you

    • A.M. said:

      Hi, I sent you a PM on your e-mail address. Thank you for writing.

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